By Greig McGill
If base malts ( discussed in part one here) are the solid foundation of brewing, specialty malts are the creative spark that transforms beer from basic to extraordinary. While I am a big proponent of keeping grain bills simple, these malts, roasted and kilned to bring out a diverse array of flavours, aromas, and colours, are the keys to crafting unique beer profiles. In part two of this article, we’ll explore some of the most common specialty malts and how they contribute to the soul of your beer, as well as some of my tips and tricks.
What Makes a Malt "Special"?
Specialty malts differ from base malts primarily in their processing. While base malts are lightly kilned to retain fermentable sugars, specialty malts are roasted, caramelised, or otherwise processed to create a spectrum of flavours, from sweet to smoky. These malts are typically used in smaller proportions but have an outsized impact on the final product.
The Usual Suspects: Common Specialty Malts
Crystal and Caramel Malts:
Arguably the most well-known category of specialty malts, crystal and caramel malts are produced through a unique process of stewing and kilning, where the starches are converted into sugars inside the grain husk, then kilned to form crystalised sugar. I often call them “brewer’s breakfast” because they are sweet to chew on, and you can even pour milk over them and eat them! These malts contribute sweetness, caramel notes ranging from light honey sweetness through toffee, and finally to burnt molasses. Colourwise, they provide hues ranging from golden amber to deep mahogany.
Common Uses:
- Pale ales and IPAs: Less in vogue these days, but can be used with a gentle hand to add balance to hoppy bitterness.
- Amber ales and red ales: Used to enhance colour and provide a rich, toffee-like backbone.
- Porters and stouts: Used to deepen the complexity with sweet undertones, and help offset some of the often intense bitter burnt notes, especially in imperial versions.
Popular Examples:
- Light Crystal (10-20°L / 12-26 SRM): Subtle honey sweetness.
- Medium Crystal (40-60°L / 40-80 SRM): Rich caramel and toffee notes.
- Dark Crystal (80-120°L / 107-162 SRM): Burnt sugar and raisin flavours.
Roasted Malts
For beers with darker, bolder profiles, roasted malts are indispensable. These malts are subjected to high temperatures, resulting in a range of flavours from chocolate and coffee to intense, burnt bitterness.
Common Uses:
- Stouts and porters: For their signature dark roast character.
- Black IPAs and dark lagers: Add depth and colour without overwhelming.
Popular Examples:
- Chocolate Malt: A balance of bitter cocoa and roasted flavours.
- Black Malt: Strong, astringent roast character with a sharp finish.
- Roasted Barley: Technically unmalted but roasted for intense coffee and burnt toast notes.
Biscuit and Amber Malts
For brewers chasing nutty, toasty flavours, biscuit and amber malts are standout choices. They are lightly roasted to bring out a warm, bready aroma reminiscent of baked goods.
Common Uses:
- English ales: Enhance biscuit-like undertones.
- Brown ales: Add a toasty richness.
- Pale ales: Contribute subtle complexity.
Biscuit malts can evoke fresh-baked bread, while amber malts lean into toasted nuts and a hint of dryness. Victory is a popular amber malt by the USA maltster Briess, rather than a type of malt. I mention this mainly because I’ve seen recipes which just specify “Victory” malt. In practice, it’s halfway between the two, and I’d replace it with a 50/50 blend of biscuit and amber if called for in a recipe. Hey, and we’re not even up to the tips section yet!
Munich and Vienna Malts
While these malts are properly classified as base malts, their strong malty character and ability to amplify beer’s richness often place them in the specialty category.
Common Uses:
- Oktoberfest and Märzen lagers: Add a malty sweetness and copper colour.
- Bocks and Dunkels: Enhance depth and richness of malt character.
Munich Malt is the bolder of the two, offering malty sweetness with hints to outright statements of bread crust. Munich often comes in “types”, with lower numbers being more subtle, and paler. It’s mostly about kilning time.
Vienna Malt is a lighter, subtly sweet profile with a touch of toast.
Honey and Melanoidin Malts
These malts are all about amplifying sweetness and complexity, with honey malts (shock, horror) contributing a honey-like character and melanoidin malts enhancing body and mouthfeel. Melanoiden malt is often used to simulate the character of a German-style decoction mash, though be careful not to assume it’s a total substitute.
Common Uses:
- Specialty ales: Add perceived sweetness without actual honey.
- Dark lagers and ales: Create depth and richness.
Melanoidin malt’s name comes from the compounds (melanoidins) that form during the Maillard reaction, giving beer a deep, malty aroma.
Smoked Malts
Smoked malts are dried over open flames or smoldering wood, absorbing the smoky character that defines certain beer styles.
Common Uses:
- Rauchbiers: Traditional German smoked beers.
- Porters and stouts: Add a subtle smokiness.
- Experimental beers: Bring BBQ vibes to the brew.
Depending on the wood used, flavours can range from campfire to bacon-like. Be aware that Scotch/Scottish style ales do NOT feature smoked malts. People often assume they are peaty (like some Scotch whiskies) and add peat smoked malt. This is not the case. That said, it’s your beer, so you can do what you like! Just don’t expect any beer judges to approve, and consider entering any such beers in a smoked or experimental category. I know a lot of brewers burned (see what I did there?) by this, so again, I’m sneaking in a tip early!
Blending Specialty Malts: The Brewer's Palette (and Palate!)
The true art of brewing lies in balancing these malts to craft a cohesive beer. Too much of one type of malt can overpower, while too little of another might leave a beer feeling one-dimensional. Brewers often layer multiple specialty malts, building complexity while preserving harmony. Here’s how to think about specialty malts as paints on your palette, but always remember that the ultimate answer lies with how it tastes to your palate!
Flavour:
From nutty and bready to bold and rich, specialty malts are responsible for some of beer’s most memorable flavours.
Colour:
Specialty malts are the pigments of the brewing world. The right malt can turn a pale brew golden or give a stout its inky blackness. Chasing that elusive “perfect red beer”? The exact amount of roast/black malt will do, but you’ll need to pay attention to your colour numbers.
Mouthfeel:
Certain malts, like malted oats or melanoidin, can enhance the body of a beer, making it fuller and creamier.
Tips and Tricks
Keeping it simple is still the best mantra. Know your malts well - chew and smell them. Never add a malt unless you can describe to someone else exactly what you are hoping to get from it. If it still passes the “add it” test, be careful with how much you add. Not enough, and why bother having it in the grist? Too much, and it may dominate the flavour and ruin the balance.
Don’t be too precious about exact quantities though. Your favourite commercial brewers are not measuring down to the gram. They’re going by sacks, or at worst, half-sacks of malt! OK, so the odd nano-brewer might faff around with 200 gram amounts here and there, and even at 10bbl or larger, you still have to be a bit careful with roasted and black patent type malts, but mostly - we’re chucking a sack in!
While it’s not a perfect solution due to the changes wrought by fermentation, carbonation, and the presence of hops and other adjuncts in the finished beer, you can get a good feel for a potential malt bill by doing a tiny proportional mini mash. Get a gram scale and measure out a very small (50 grams-ish) “malt bill” made up of your intended ratios. Steep it in some 65ish degree water for 15 minutes or so (use a thermos or similar to hold temperature) and then taste the result.
Wrapping It Up: Toasting to Specialty Malts
Specialty malts might not make up the bulk of a recipe, but they are the creative soul of brewing. They allow brewers to push boundaries, experiment with flavours, and craft beers that tell a story. Whether you’re savoring the chocolatey depth of a porter or the nutty warmth of an amber ale, there’s a specialty malt behind the magic.
So next time you raise a glass, take a moment to appreciate the artistry of malt. After all, hops might get all the credit, but without malt, beer wouldn’t be the complex, wonderful drink we love.