By Greig McGill
Ah, Born Slippy. Thanks to Underworld and the placement of their song Born Slippy in the soundtrack to the huge culture-defining film Trainspotting, lots of people started shouting about lager. Back in 1996 in New Zealand, I’m not sure many people understood what a lager was. Was it a different thing to beer? Why are we shouting about it? Well, grab yourself a cold one, settle in, and let’s dive into the frosty world of lager beer - a realm where tradition meets modern ingenuity, and every sip whispers tales of time, temperature, and terrific brewing techniques.
The Chilly Beginnings: A Brief History of Lager Beer
Before we get into the nitty-gritty of lagering at home, let’s talk about how lager beer came to be. Picture Bavaria in the late Middle Ages, around the 1400s, a time when beer was a staple of daily life and people knew how to appreciate a good pint. While ales were the reigning champions, a mysterious new player was about to steal the show: lager.
The term “lager” comes from the German word lagern, meaning “to store.” Brewers in Bavaria had noticed that brewing in the winter produced higher quality beers than in the warmer seasons. They also discovered that by storing beer at cooler temperatures for a longer period - often in naturally cold caves or cellars - the result was a smoother, crisper drink. These storage conditions slowed down fermentation and maturation, allowing flavors to meld and unwanted by-products to settle out. Thus, lagering was born: a method that transformed the lively, robust, and probably a bit… erm… funky ales of the day into something refreshingly clean and immensely drinkable.
Lagering remained something of a Bavarian (and eventually German, but don’t tell the Bavarians that) trick, although word spread of the fabulously clean beers of the region. In 1839, the Bohemian (ie. in Bohemia, not full of hippies) town of Plzeň (or Pilsen) founded their own brewery as a reaction against the terrible local beer. They commissioned a well known German brewer, Josef Groll, to design and produce the beer which would become the flagship of lager around the world, and in 1842, Pilsner Urquell was born. Urquell means original source, and from that source flowed the first international beer trend! It probably helped that clear glass drinking vessels were also becoming fashionable, and serving this crystal clear golden lager beer in a glass really helped sell it. By the late 19th century, most of Europe, and a good chunk of the USA was drinking variants of that pale lager known as “Pilsner”. Thanks to lager-producing giants such as Carlsberg, and the marketing budgets that came with them, “lager” became a synonym for beer, and eventually the world’s most dominant type of our favourite foamy beverage.
Why Lager? The Science (and Art) of Cool Beer
So, lagering takes longer and requires more effort… why go through all this effort to lager your beer? The answer is as multifaceted as a well-crafted beer. Fundamentally, lagering is all about refining the beer. Here’s why you might want to take your homebrew on a chilling adventure:
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Clarity and Cleanliness: Lagering gives your beer time to settle out unwanted proteins and yeast. The result? A crystal-clear drink that looks as good as it tastes. This is especially important for lager styles in competition, where clarity is not just aesthetically pleasing - it’s a requirement.
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Smooth, Crisp Flavors: During lagering, the beer matures slowly, allowing harsh flavors to mellow and the delicate balance of malt and hops to shine through. The low temperatures inhibit the production of esters and other fruity compounds that can overwhelm the subtle notes of a finely balanced lager.
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Improved Stability: The extended cold storage helps stabilize the beer, reducing the risk of off-flavors developing over time. This means your carefully brewed lager can keep its composure even when enjoyed weeks or months later.
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A Touch of Tradition: Let’s not forget the romance of it all! Lagering connects you to a long history of brewing craftsmanship. When you carefully lower your brew into the chilly realm of the lagering process, you’re participating in a tradition that spans centuries and continents. Don’t you just love this hobby?
Lagering at Home: Techniques for the Aspiring Brewmaster
Lagering is not particularly difficult, it just requires more precise control and more patience. I’m confident that anyone can brew a great lager that would make even the most discerning Bavarian smile. Here are some techniques to get you started:
1. Start with a Solid Recipe
Before diving into the lagering process, ensure your initial brew is on point. Whether you’re brewing a traditional Pilsner, a Vienna lager, or something with a modern twist, quality ingredients and a reliable recipe are important. Choose a yeast strain specifically designed for lagering - these yeasts thrive at lower temperatures and produce the clean profile that defines a good lager. The friendly team at Brewshop would be happy to help with recipe formulation suggestions, as I’ve been fortunate enough to try their lagers, and they are delicious!
2. Fermentation: The Warm-Up Phase
Lagering isn’t a magic trick you can pull off overnight. It all begins with a primary fermentation, typically carried out at a warmer temperature (around 10°C to 13°C) than your eventual lagering stage. This is just like a normal fermentation, but a bit slower. As colder fermentation is more stressful for yeast, you will generally want a higher pitch rate. Check with your yeast manufacturer’s web site for specific recommendations, and don’t skimp! Oxygen and yeast nutrition is important here also. Keep those little miracles healthy! Keep an eye on the fermentation process, and don’t rush it. Patience here means fewer hiccups later on. Don’t forget the usual VDK/diacetyl rest at the end of fermentation - warm your beer up by 1-2 degrees as fermentation is nearing the end and hold it there until completely done.
3. Transitioning to Lagering
Once primary fermentation is complete, it’s time to gradually lower the temperature. Think of it as coaxing your beer into a gentle winter slumber rather than throwing it straight into a deep freeze. Gradually drop the temperature to around 2°C to 4°C. This slow transition is key to avoiding shocking your brew and ensuring a smooth transition into lagering. Recent research suggests this slower drop is also beneficial for ales, and shows benefits in reduced off flavour production and better head retention.
4. Patience is a Virtue
I know, you’re thirsty, but lagering takes time. Depending on your recipe and the style of lager you’re aiming for, the lagering process can last anywhere from four weeks to several months. Think of it as a long winter’s nap for your beer - one that rewards you with exceptional clarity, flavor, and stability. Use this time to hone your patience, perhaps even keeping a brewing journal to note subtle changes and improvements in your brew over time. That’s right, nobody said you can’t taste it during the process! Be wary of oxygen ingress though…
5. Keep It Consistent
Temperature consistency is paramount during the lagering stage. Sudden changes can cause your beer to develop off-flavors or even lead to unwanted secondary fermentations. If you don’t have a dedicated fermentation chamber with precise temperature control, consider investing in a modified refrigerator or a temperature-controlled environment. The extra effort here will pay dividends in the quality of your final product.
6. A Little Extra Oxygen (Not Much!)
While oxygen is a foe during the lagering process - leading to staleness and oxidation - it’s worth noting that the initial aeration before pitching your yeast is crucial for a healthy fermentation. Once fermentation is underway, however, keep oxygen out of the equation. This means being extra careful when transferring your beer from one vessel to another. Techniques like siphoning or using closed transfers can help minimize oxygen exposure and maintain the delicate balance of flavors.
7. Trial and Error: Embrace the Learning Curve
Even the most seasoned brewers have faced a lagering disaster or two (or three). Don’t be discouraged if your first few batches aren’t exactly what you hoped for. Brewing is as much an art as it is a science, and each attempt teaches you something new about the intricacies of temperature, timing, and technique. Keep detailed notes, ask fellow brewers for advice, and most importantly, enjoy the process. Remember, every batch is a step closer to lager perfection.
A Toast to the Future: Experimenting with Lager Styles
Once you’ve mastered the basics of lagering at home, the world of lager styles opens up like a frosty winter wonderland. Beyond the classic Pilsner, you can experiment with a variety of lager styles, each with its own unique twist. Fancy a rich, malty Märzen? Or perhaps a smooth, dark Dunkel? The principles of lagering remain the same—controlled fermentation, patient maturation, and the thrill of crafting something truly special.
Experimentation might lead you to blend different malts, hop varieties, or even incorporate unique adjuncts like spices or fruits. While purists might raise an eyebrow at such innovations, remember: beer is as much about creativity as it is about tradition. By merging time-honored techniques with your own creative flair, you might just brew the next big thing in the lager world.